Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden gems that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
